Euros Ate My Dollars

We’ve had so much incredible food on our trip, but these are the restaurants we consider unmissable. We also note the culinary delights you should be sure to sample in each country!

Greece
Italy
France
Czech Republic
Spain
Portugal

GREECE

Chania, Crete

Our landlady in Chania pointed us to her favorite local fish taverna, and it’s an affordable can’t-miss. We can’t remember the name of the place, but we can get you there. From the Old Town harbor, start walking west along the waterfront. Walk all the way down to the local beach, and it’s the very last restaurant on the beach. When the paved road curves back inland, you’ll know you’re there.

In the “new town” section of Chania, there are several incredible eateries. Look for hole-in-the-wall restaurants filled with old men shoveling food into their mouths. You’ll probably have to go into the kitchen and point to what you want. It may not be as picturesque as old town, but new town has more authentic fare and cheaper prices!

Athens

[coming soon]

Greek delights to try: GYROS, pastitsio, loukomades

ITALY

(As if you even needed us here…)

Naples

Pizzeria del Centro – The huge wood-burning stove produces a magical dough that’s thin AND chewy, and melts the fresh mozzarella ’til it’s sliding off the pie. Probably only accessible to those staying in the Fabric Hostel outside of town. If that includes you, then you’ll pass this place on your walk from the train station to the hostel. It’s the one on your right that’s overflowing with locals every night.
(Any authentic Neapolitan pizzeria will blow your mind.)

Rome

Enoteca Corsi – The menu is small, changes daily, and delicious. Lunch only. On Via del Gesu behind the Pantheon. The hordes of grumpy, old Italian men will show you the way. Order as many dishes as you can and share everything!

Della Palma (Gelato di Roma) – Our favorite gelateria in Rome (and that’s saying something) can almost be seen from the Pantheon. It features 100+ homemade gelato flavors, and you get to choose two with any size cone or cup. With the Pantheon facade to your back, you can walk straight down one of two roads. Choose the one on the right, and walk about two blocks. Your destination will be on your left, and marked by a neon palm-tree in the window. For the map-inclined: Via della Maddalena 20.

Florence

Fiaschetteria-Trattoria Mario – Locals and expats alike will tell you that this is THE place to go for lunch in Florence. The menu changes daily, and will be posted on the wall inside. All the soups are amazing, as is the ragu, and Mario knows coniglio (rabbit) like no one else. Be sure to get there before noon because the locals fill this tiny place up FAST. You’ll be stuffed into the tiny restaurant at tables with people you don’t know, so it’s a good chance to talk to the locals. Behind Mercato di San Lorenzo in the Piazza Mercato Centrale (Via Rosina, 2R). Lunch only, Mon-Sat.

The Olive Shoppe – Awesome paninis. There’s always a line out the door. On Via Sant Egidio past Pizza S.M. Nuova.

Festival del Gelato - Best pistachio gelato we tasted. Via del Corso 75r

Bologna

Il Tari - Try the zucchini flower appetizer and the Bolognese sauce. Via Collegio di Spange 13. Make sure you go in hungry.

Gianni - The best gelato in Italy. Creamy and perfect. Via Montegroppall (I think?)

FRANCE

Nice

Le Banane – Specializes in banana-centric cooking. Try the Croque Banana (think grilled cheese + banana sandwich), or a flambéed banana crepe. 6 rue de la Poissonnerie.

Marseille

Chez Madie Les Galinettes Right on the harbor, this place didn’t disappoint for our special night out. We hear they have great bouillabaisse, but you have to order a day ahead if you want some. We didn’t do that, but we’ll vouch for the rest of the food. 138 quai du Port 2.

French must-tastes: desserts galore! Chocolate croissants and buttery crepes. Also, warm, crusty baguettes from the local bakery.

CZECH REPUBLIC

Prague

[coming soon]

Czech delignts that should not be missed.

SPAIN

Barcelona

Bar Jaj-Ca Tapes – The best tapas in Barcelona, and the loyal throng of locals and students to show for it. It’s a little tricky to find, but nothing this epic should be easy. It’s in the neighborhood called Barceloneta, and that’s all I can tell you. Go there and look for the red awning. Get the fried scallops and the eggplant and make sure you wash it down with lots of cerveza.

Spanish delights that should not be missed: clara (beer with lemon soda) and paella (rice/seafood dish… be careful where you eat, as this one can be very, very bad, too.)

PORTUGAL

Lisbon

Pasteis de Belem - An institution since 1833, and a no-brainer if you’ll be in Lisbon for ANY length of time. This place redefines the Portuguese dessert favorite known as “pasteis de nata.” Read more about it here, and take the tram to the Belem neighborhood as often as you can.

There are some great Northern Africian and Brazilian restaurants in Lisbon. Ask around for recommendations. Try vinho verde (green wine) and grilled sardines. And be sure to visit a fado bar!

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